Questions, Answers & Tips
Cleaning And Preparing . Tests for Success . Determine What Finish to use
Latex vs. Oil . Staining Previously Coated Surfaces . Pressure Treated Wood
Application . After Staining . Common Questions . Safety
Cleaning and Preparing
- Q: Will Olympic Deck Cleaner remove mildew from a deck?
- A: Yes. Olympic Deck Cleaner is designed to remove embedded dirt and mildew stains.
- Q: After pressure washing, how long should the wood be allowed to dry before staining?
- A: After pressure washing, wait at least 48 hours before staining.
- Q: Do I need to clean my deck before staining it?
- A: Cleaning is an all-important first step. If dirt, mildew or other contaminants are on the surface, it will affect adhesion of any product that is applied. For horizontal surfaces, use Olympic Deck Cleaner or Deck Brightener depending on your wood care needs. For heavy-duty cleaning action on the majority of wood types, including composites use: Olympic Deck Cleaner. For gentle cleaning of cedar and redwood decks use: Olympic Deck Brightener.
- Q: I just cleaned my deck and it has a white fuzzy appearance. What is going on?
- A: Olympic Deck Cleaner is a very aggressive cleaner. It has to be this way in order to clean without scrubbing. The Deck Cleaner contains sodium hypochlorite (bleach) and may lighten the wood. This is also part of its cleaning process. If the wood is weathered, degraded wood fibers may give it a fuzzy appearance. Remove with a high-pressure garden hose or light sanding.
- Q: Is water beading a true sign of water repellency and durability?
- A: Water beading and persistency of water beading is not an indicator of water repellency or durability of a coating. Olympic Stains continue to protect substrates long after the water beading stops. The guidelines for restaining are the same as those used to determine when to paint: color fading, cracking and peeling, excessive wear on decks, erosion, overall appearance, etc.
Tips
- Cover all surrounding areas, such as plants, shrubs and bushes, with a tarp or drop cloth
- Surface contaminants such as dirt, dust, loose wood fibers, oil, mildew and tannin stains must be removed before the application of a stain or sealant.
- Stain new wood as soon as possible. The adhesion of a stain or sealant will be greatly increased if applied within a week of installation. Even a few weeks of weathering will reduce adhesion.
- When staining new pressure-treated wood, water may remain in the wood from the preservation process, in this case the wood should be allowed to dry for about two to four weeks prior to staining.
- Wood Toners can be applied to bare wood or wood previously treated with a clear or wood toner
- Intermix all gallons of the same color and product before starting the job to ensure color uniformity. This may be a good time to confirm that everything you picked up is the same product.
- Solid Color Stain can be applied to bare wood or previously stained wood
- Stains and sealants frequently penetrate better into wood with rough surfaces. This may have an effect on service life. Sanding wood surfaces with medium to fine grit paper can improve penetration into the wood.
Tests for Success:
Water Absorption Test
- If you are unsure about if it is time to stain or seal your deck, pour a small cup of water on a few horizontal surfaces. If water is absorbed in less than 10 minutes, or if the surface color darkens, then it is time to stain or seal your deck.
Tape Peel Test
- Use this test when planning to stain older, weathered wood. Take a putty knife, or other sharp blade, cut a small “X” in two or three random spots on the surface. Cover the cuts with duct tape, press down firmly, and then quickly pull it off. If any flakes of old wood stain are stuck on the tape, then you must first sand the surface or apply Olympic Stain Stripper to reveal a fresh layer of wood.
The Color Test
- Not only do different wood types vary in color, texture and absorbency, but so do different lots of the same lumber. Stain absorbency will also vary due to temperature and humidity. This will impact the final look of your color. It is a good idea to do a color test on a small hidden area to determine how quickly your specific wood will absorb and retain a stain color.
Determining What Finish to Use
- Q: My house was painted with Olympic Solid Color Oil Stain. What should I use to re-stain?
- A: We do not recommend recoating with another oil stain. Applying another coat of oil stain to a surface already saturated with oil will result in a condition called flashing. We recommend recoating with an Olympic Solid Color Latex Stain, such as Maximum Solid Color Stain which is self-priming. If the stain is not self-priming, bare wood areas need to be spot-primed with a high quality primer before staining with Olympic Solid Color Latex Stain.
- Q: Is it necessary to cover an Olympic Exterior Stain with polyurethane or some type of water sealant?
- A: No. All Olympic Exterior Stains are "stand alone" finishes and do not require another topcoat for additional protection. They act as a stain and a sealant.
- Q: I don't want my siding to turn gray, but I also want it to look natural. Should I use a clear?
- A: Remember, the more pigment, the more protection against graying. This is why a paint lasts longer than a solid color stain, a solid color stain will last longer than a semi-transparent, and wood toners will last longer than clear finishes. The natural color of the wood will not remain for long time periods with clears, so they require recoating every year or two. Wood toners add a slight hint of color and extend the refinish time by preventing graying to maintain the wood's natural color. Remember, the best way to prevent graying is to use a product that contains pigment.
Tips
- Think of your backyard furniture and the architectural details of your home when choosing color for all your exterior wood needs. Choose from the wide selection of Olympic semi-transparent and solid colors to complement your home's existing features.
- Stain may vary in color on different species of wood. Test a small area of the wood before staining to ensure acceptable appearance and penetration of the coating.
- Use a wood stain that beautifies, seals and protects to ensure maximum protection. Olympic stain products seal and protect and DO NOT require an additional water sealant.
- Clears can be applied to bare wood or wood previously treated with a clear finish
- Wood Toners can be applied to bare wood or wood previously treated with a clear or wood toner
- Semi-transparent stain can be applied to bare wood or wood previously treated with a clear, wood toner, or semi-transparent stain
- Solid Color Stain can be applied to bare wood or previously stained wood
- Due to the need for complete hiding, if you choose to use a stain over paint, the only option is to use a solid color stain.
Latex vs. Oil Stain
- Q: Is solid latex stain as effective as solid oil stain on new wood?
- A: Yes. Both products are effective on new wood and the best one is the one the customer prefers. However, solid color oil stains can only be used on vertical surfaces, not decks.
- Q: Why can't I use a roller to apply Olympic Solid Color Latex Stain?
- A: A roller can create pinholes in the stain film that could allow moisture to enter and eventually lead to adhesion problems. Apply Olympic Solid Color Stain with a brush or sprayer.
- Q: Can you put latex over oil?
- A: Yes. Latex stains or paints can be used to recoat over an old oil finish. It is very important, however, to do excellent surface preparation. This includes scuff-sanding any glossy areas, removing any loose or flaking paint and removing all the dirt and contaminants from the surface. If the existing oil stain or paint is tightly adhered to the surface and is in good condition, the latex may be applied without a primer. If bare surfaces are showing a primer is required. To avoid this situation in the future, use the Olympic Water Absorption Test
Staining Previously Coated Surfaces
- Q: Can solid color deck stain be recoated with the same Olympic stain after one year without the use of a primer?
- A: Yes, provided that proper surface preparation was done when the initial coating was applied. Recoating with an Olympic Solid Color Stain is possible after one year if the film is still in sound condition with no dirt, mildew, flaking, etc. If the coating is not in sound condition, then a primer is recommended. Regardless, you should always clean the surface prior to coating.
- Q: My house was painted with Olympic Solid Color Oil Stain. What should I use to re-stain?
- A: We do not recommend recoating with another oil stain. Applying another coat of oil stain to a surface already saturated with oil will result in a condition called flashing. We recommend recoating with an Olympic Solid Color Latex Stain, such as Maximum Solid Color Stain which is self-priming. If the stain is not self-priming, bare wood areas need to be spot-primed with a high quality primer before staining with Olympic Solid Color Latex Stain.
Tips
- Due to the need for complete hiding, if you choose to use a stain over paint, the only option is to use a solid color stain.
Pressure Treated Wood
- Q: I have a brand-new deck that was constructed with pressure-treated wood. I have heard that I should wait 60-90 days or even a year before staining. Is this true?
- A: No. While some manufacturer's products require wood to be exposed for six months to a year so that the wood is dry and the grain is open for optimum penetration, Olympic products can be applied immediately. We have found that after six months of exposure, the wood has started to crack, split, warp, cup, and turn gray; permanent damage has already occurred. We recommend protecting PTW as soon as possible to prevent this type of damage from occurring and to extend the life of the deck. It should be noted that PTW is received more "green" and saturated with water than in the past. For saturated wood, the recommendation is to allow it to dry for a week or so before coating, but it should still be coated as soon as possible. The Forest Technology Laboratories have proven that wood exposed and left uncoated for two or more weeks will have coating failures significantly faster than wood coated before exposure to the elements.
- Q: Does pressure-treated lumber need waterproofing?
- A: Yes. Pressure-treated wood is pretreated with chemicals that are effective against wood destroying organisms, but have little effect on damage caused by moisture. Wood is a naturally porous material, and as it dries, it shrinks. When wood absorbs water, it swells. These cycles cause wood to crack, warp and split—this is typically what is meant by "water damage." Water repellents or sealers slow the rate at which moisture is absorbed and released, thus reducing stresses within the wood.
Application
- Q: Do you have to back brush deck stains when you spray?
- A: Yes. Back brushing gives better coverage and a more uniform appearance. Backbrushing will also improve wetting of the substrate, which promotes better penetration into the wood to improve the overall durability of the finish.
- Q: Do I need to coat the ends of the boards on my deck?
- A: Yes. For maximum protection, you should seal all of the board surfaces. The end of a board provides a good entry point for water, which can eventually cause the wood to rot.
- Q: The Olympic Stain label states to only apply one thin coat. Isn't more better?
- A: It is very important to use only the recommended amounts that are listed on our products' labels. Too much product can distort the color and also lead to drying problems.
- Q: Why can't I use a roller to apply Olympic Solid Color Latex Stain?
- A: A roller can create pinholes in the stain film that could allow moisture to enter and eventually lead to adhesion problems. Apply Olympic Solid Color Stain with a brush or sprayer.
Tips
- Coatings should not be applied to wet wood surfaces. For best results, do not apply the stain or sealant when it has rained within 24 hours. Also, do not apply if rain is forecasted within 24 hours after completion.
- Stir the product thoroughly and often during use. Mix five gallon containers by stirring and pouring product into another five gallon container and repeating to disperse any pigment which may have settled to the bottom.
- Treat all areas of the wood, including joints, edges and ends of the board. Other areas that are exposed to moisture, such as doors and window frames should also be treated.
- When staining siding, it is beneficial to seal the backside of the siding to prevent water absorption throughout the wood.
- When staining fences, if possible, seal both ends of the posts that may absorb water from the ground.
- Lap marks may form when stains are improperly applied. Lapping can be prevented by staining a few boards at a time and maintaining a wet edge.
- Brush out puddles and runs immediately.
- When spraying or rolling, backbrushing improves penetration, appearance and durability.
- When using Olympic clears, toners and semi-transparent stains one thin coat is recommended for maximum penetration.
- When staining with a solid color stain, two coats are recommended to achieve a uniform finish.
After Staining
- Q: It's been three days since I stained my deck and it still is not dry. Why?
- A: If a stain is unable to adequately penetrate the surface, it will remain soft and spongy for a while. Applying too much product or applying the product over a sealed, wet or moisture-retaining surface are common causes for this. Allow additional time for the sun and air to contribute to the drying process. Another option is to apply some mineral spirits or a pine-oil containing product, let it stand for about 10 minutes and use a stiff bristle brush to remove the excess product.
- Q: I just stained my deck and there are shiny spots all over. What happened?
- A: A shiny spot, or “flashing” is a condition where the stain or sealant is unable to penetrate into the wood and instead sits on the surface and looks shiny. Applying too much product or applying product over a sealed, wet or moisture-retaining surface are primary reasons. Exposure to sunlight will eventually "dull” shiny spots for an even sheen. Another option is to apply some mineral spirits or a pine-oil containing product, let it stand about 10 minutes and use a stiff bristle brush to remove excess product.
- Q: I just applied Olympic Stain to my deck and I accidentally sprayed some onto my vinyl siding. How can I get it off?
- A: We have found that linseed-oil based product can be removed from vinyl siding by using Pine-Sol or Simple Green (pine-oil containing cleaners). Leave it on for approximately 10 minutes and scrub with a stiff bristle brush. If the product has dried for several days, it may not come off.
Tips
- Allow 24-48 hours drying time for light foot traffic or furniture placement.
Common Questions
- Q: I recently used a fairly well-known "waterseal" on my deck. Although the water "beads up," I notice that the deck is turning gray and splintering. What is wrong?
- A: "Water beading" simply indicates the presence of a water-repellent additive in your product. Unfortunately, it takes more than surface water repellency to protect your deck from the elements. To do the job correctly, you need to use a product that penetrates the wood cells and encapsulates the wood fibers with a protective resin. Choose a product that will provide deep-penetrating protection from the damaging effects of the sun's ultraviolet rays, as well as from rain and snow. Also, look for products that provide a mildew resistant coating.
- Q: I just stained my deck and there are shiny spots all over. What happened?
- A: A shiny spot, or “flashing” is a condition where the stain or sealant is unable to penetrate into the wood and instead sits on the surface and looks shiny. Applying too much product or applying product over a sealed, wet or moisture-retaining surface are primary reasons. Exposure to sunlight will eventually "dull” shiny spots for an even sheen. Another option is to apply some mineral spirits or a pine-oil containing product, let it stand about 10 minutes and use a stiff bristle brush to remove excess product.
- Q: I applied Olympic Stain to my deck and accidentally sprayed some onto my vinyl siding. How can I get it off?
- A: We have found that linseed-oil based product can be removed from vinyl siding by using Pine-Sol or Simple Green (pine-oil containing cleaners). Leave it on for approximately 10 minutes and scrub with a stiff bristle brush. If the product has dried for several days, it may not come off.
- Q: I just cleaned my deck and it has a white fuzzy appearance. What is going on?
- A: Olympic Deck Cleaner is a very aggressive cleaner. It has to be this way in order to clean without scrubbing. The Deck Cleaner contains sodium hypochlorite (bleach) and may lighten the wood. This is also part of its cleaning process. If the wood is weathered, degraded wood fibers may give it a fuzzy appearance. Remove with a high-pressure garden hose or light sanding.
- Q: It's been three days since I stained my deck and it still is not dry. Why?
- A: If a stain is unable to adequately penetrate the surface, it will remain soft and spongy for a while. Applying too much product or applying the product over a sealed, wet or moisture-retaining surface are common causes for this. Allow additional time for the sun and air to contribute to the drying process. Another option is to apply some mineral spirits or a pine-oil containing product, let it stand for about 10 minutes and use a stiff bristle brush to remove the excess product.
Safety
- Q: Why do Olympic stain labels warn against spontaneous combustion?
- A: The oxidation cure mechanism of alkyd and linseed oil resins is a chemical reaction that releases heat. Although this does not present any danger on wood, the heat produced is sufficient to cause rags or steel wool covered with stain to ignite. Proper care should always be taken to dispose of rags and steel wool used during a staining project. Follow the instructions on the label for proper disposal procedures. Spontaneous combustion will not occur with latex stains because they cure differently.
